Ambar

I recently won a bet with a friend and my prize was dinner on him. I chose Ambar in Clarendon which has an unlimited small plate option that satisfies my love of variety and large quantities of food.

When I first went to Ambar (at the Navy Yard location), you had to order each small plate one at a time and it would take forever for someone like me, who usually orders about 10 plates, to be satisfied before leaving. Over time, they have realized that the easiest and quickest way to turn the tables over was to allow patrons to order multiple plates at once.

I am not too familiar with Balkan cuisine apart from Ambar but when people ask me about it, I usually say it tastes American food with a twist. Each dish seems like something you’ve probably had before but the Balkan flair really keeps you off balance as you work through every small plate.

My first 3 dishes were the hand-cut fries, fried chicken, and steak tartar. The fries were a nice way to start. Drizzled with an aioli and topped with sprouts, they were a fun way to start off. The chicken was panko-almond crusted topped with an apple-wasabi slaw. I thought the fried chicken was well-cooked but the slaw, though tasty, seemed to be a bit too sweet for the fried chicken. Sometimes the salty and sweet combo really elevates a dish but, in this case, it was a bit of a distraction. The steak tartar topped with a spicy aioli and crispy capers and hand-toasted bread was the highlight of the entire meal for me. The steak tartar was so good that I forgot I was eating raw beef and the crispy capers (I HATE CAPERS) lightly accented the steak in a way that was surprising and delightful.

My next 3 dishes were chicken skewers, white flatbread, and Istrian gnocchi. The chicken breast, marinated in ajvar sauce, was smoky and juicy but not particularly flavorful otherwise. The flatbread, with sheep’s cheese and mozzarella drizzled with truffle oil, was excellent. Although it was simple, the ingredients really complemented each other. I had high hopes for the gnocchi (combined with creamy mushroom sauce, truffle paste, and onion) but it was forgettable. The sauce was kind of runny and the truffle flavor was surprisingly mild and uninspired.

I finished my meal with the cheese pie and grilled shrimp. The cheese pie combines crispy phyllo dough, aged cheese, roasted pepper cream, and yogurt. I really enjoyed this dish. The flavors were distinct, savory, and somehow familiar. The shrimp marinated with a house-made rub served with corn puree was a bit of a miss for me. The shrimp was nicely cooked, but the corn puree was too sweet for the dish. It lacked cohesion and depth.

A note on the price. As I said, I’ve been going to Ambar for about 10 years. When I first went it was $28 for unlimited small plates (including dessert) and $35 with unlimited mimosas. Now, at dinner, it’s $50 for unlimited small plates (without dessert) and $58 with dessert. I know inflation has taken a toll on the food industry, but I can’t think of another restaurant I go to where the price increases have been so pronounced.

 Overall, I love Ambar. I love the adventure of trying new dishes and mixing it up based on what I’m feeling that day. I don’t have to commit to a large plate, and I have no guilt moving quickly past a dish I do not like. The service is excellent, and the vibe is lively and casual. I tend to lean heavily towards the meat and carb-heavy dishes but they have excellent spreads, soups, salads, and veggies as well. I do think the cost may price people out of being regular diners but I think it’s a great option for a fun meal with friends who have diverse and discerning palates.